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We all get stains on your clothing – many times they do not wash out in the laundry either.  And it seems that most of the stains are in very noticeable areas.

There are laundry sticks, pre-washes, pre-treatments, you name it.  Many times they just don’t work.

First of all, if you want your clothes to come out of the wash smelling fresh, add about ½ cup white vinegar to the rinse cycle.

Save money all those cleaners, treatments, and spot removers.  Here’s a few laundry aids straight from your kitchen cupboards:

LEMON JUICE – whether diluted or straight, it’s a safe stain remover for fruit juice stains and rust stains.  Use as you would a commercial presoak and wash as usual.  NOTE:  Never throw out those bottles of reconstituted lemon juice when they are past their expiration date – they are great for the laundry room.

BAKING SODA – Using ½ cup in a load of laundry will not only eliminate odors but will also soften your clothes.  And it is gentle enough for diapers.

WHITE VINEGAR – this will eliminate odors and will also soften hard water.  Just add a cup to the rinse cycle.

MEAT TENDERIZER – Milk, blood, chocolate, and other protein-based stains can be broken down by the special enzyme that is in meat tenderizer.  To treat a fresh stain , sprinkle the stain with enough meat tenderizer to cover the entire stain and let sit for an hour.  Brush off the dried tenderizer and wash as usual.  For stains that have been set in – make a paste of 2 to 3 drops of water and 1 teaspoon meat tenderizer.  Work into the stain and let sit for an hour; launder as usual.

SOUR MILK – Sour milk is slightly acidic and has bleaching qualities as well.  Soak your shoelaces in about ½ cup sour milk, rinse and launder as usual.

SALT – A great way to treat fresh grease stains!  Sprinkle enough salt on the entire stain and allow to dry.  Brush off and you’ll be brushing off most of the grease as well.  For old grease stains, rub the salt into the stain before washing as usual.  Because it is abrasive you can also use salt on rust stains.  Just combine with s bit of white vinegar to make a paste and rub into the stain; launder as usual.

Got stains?

GUM – Place ice in a plastic bag, and working from the inside of the garment, hold the ice pack against the spot where the gum is for about 10 to 15 minutes so that the gum hardens.  When the gums hardens, peel it off.

GRASS STAINS – Glycerin to the rescue!  Just rub the stains with glycerin.  Where to find glycerin?  Check the ingredients in your constipation suppository or skin-softening lotion.  You need to use pure glycerin – other ingredients may add to the stain.  Glycerin hand lotion can easily be applied to the stains; for a suppository – just rub into the stain.  Let the garment sit for an hour and then launder as usual.

RUST STAINS – Yellow and brown stains on a shirt can be the rust that develops from iron deposits in your water supply.  Using bleach will only bleed the stains into more of the garment making them larger.  Try combining equal amounts of lemon juice and water, apply to stains. Let sit 15 minutes, launder as usual.

If the rust stains are caused by coming into contact with rusty metals, apply full strength lemon juice to the stains, let sit 15 minutes and lauder as usual.

If the rust stain is already set, soak the stain in lemon juice and hold over a steaming teakettle until the stain is thoroughly steamed.  Launder a usual.

TEA STAINS – Rub glycerin into the stain – pure glycerine as stated above.  Let sit for 15 minutes and launder as usual.

COFFEE AND TEA (WTHOUT THE CREAM/MILK AND SUGAR) because there is no milk – or protein involved) just make a solution of 1 quart of warm water, 1//2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent and  1 tablespoon white vinegar and soak your garment for 15 to 20 minutes; rinse in cold water, sponge the stained area with alcohol, and launder as usual.

COFFEE AND TEA (WITH CREAM/MILK AND SUGAR) requires a different strategy.  Act as fast as you can to prevent a permanent stain.  Immediately flush the stain with cold water to prevent it from setting.  Combine a solution of 1 quart warm water, ½ teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar.  Scrub the stains with a bit of the solution before letting it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.  Rinse with cold water, sponge the stain with alcohol, and launder as usual.  You may need to use bleach to remove any remaining spots.

If you like a lot of milk or cream in your coffee or tea – make a paste of 1 teaspoon meat tenderizer and a few drops of water and work into the stain.

BEER – Combine 1/3 cup white vinegar and 2/3 cup water; soak in the solution and blot dry with a clean towel.  Launder as usual.

WINE – Pour a little club soda or seltzer over the stain and blot with a clean paper towel or napkin.  Launder as soon as possible.

HOT FUDGE SUNDAE – Rub the stains with glycerin as stated above; let sit a few minutes; launder as usual.

FRUIT STAINS – Rinse the affected area with cold water immediately and dab with a solution of one part white vinegar and two parts water; rinse again with cold water and air dry.

FRUIT JUICE – If not treated immediately it can be a problem.  Pre-treat the area with white vinegar; let sit 15 minutes; rub in a little laundry detergent and launder as usual.

SOFT DRINKS – Soak in cold water, apply alcohol to the stain and rub in; launder as usual.

GREASE STAINS – Rub with baking soda to absorb the grease.  You can also use cornstarch or cornmeal.  Apply and allow to dry; brush off; launder as usual.

SALAD OIL – Immediately rub white chalk on the stain.  (Many restaurants have chalk that they use for writing their daily specials on a chalk board!)  Launder as usual.

BLUEBERRY OR FRUIT PIES – Use a container large enough to hold the garment and warm water.  Drop in a couple denture cleaning tablets and soak until the stain is dissolved.  Launder as usual.  Great for table cloths and cloth napkins as well.

MECHANIC’S GREASE/OIL – Apply a little mechanic’s water-free hand cleaner (like Goop) to the stain; launder as usual.

BLOOD – For a drop of blood from a paper cut – just dab with a bit of saliva on a napkin or tissue.  Saliva contains digestive enzymes that will break down the protein in the blood.  Launder as usual.

For a splotch of blood on white fabric, rinse and blot with hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball.  Launder as usual.

Bloodstains need to be treated immediately.  Soak in a solution of water and salt.

You can also add a generous splash of ammonia to a sinkful of cold water to remove the redness of a blood stain.  Soak for 30 minutes; rinse in cold water; if needed, scrub with a bit of dishwashing detergent on the stain; launder as usual.

Soak a blood-stained article of clothing in milk; launder as usual.

NAIL POLISH – For natural fiber materials – dab the stain from behind with nail polish remover; blot with a clean cloth.  Launder as usual.  THIS WILL NOT WORK ON SYNTHETIC FIBERS.

LIPSTICK – Coat the stain with hairspray; let sit for a few minutes; wipe off excess spray – and the lipstick; launder as usual.

PENCIL MARKS – Use an old, clean toothbrush to apply a little diluted window cleaner to the stain; launder as usual.  Or treat with a solution of ½ cup water, 1 tablespoon alcohol, and 2 to 3 drops of dishwashing detergent; apply with a clean toothbrush; rinse; launder as usual.

INK – If you hairspray has alcohol as a main ingredient – you’re in business.  Apply to the stains; launder as usual.

CRAYON – Lay stained garments stain-side down on a paper towel; spray from the back using WD-40.   Let sit a few minutes; turn over and spray the stain itself.  Apply a mild dishwashing detergent and work into the stain; use a clean toothbrush to gently scrub the stain out.  Blot between clean paper towels to absorb the stain.  Launder SEPARATELY from other laundry.  Wash in the hottest water allowed for that garment.

If a crayon ends up in the wash don’t panic.  You will first need to remove the crayon from the washing machine drum.  Spray a clean cloth with WD-40 (do NOT spray directly to the drum) and rub out the crayon.  Ditto with your clothes dryer.  Then run a few clean cloths through a drying cycle to pick up any leftover particles before trying to dry another load of clothes.

PERSPIRATION STAINS – Dampen stains and sprinkle with meat tenderizer; launder as usual.  Or add a handful of salt to a quart of water and soak sweaty clothes for an hour; rinse and launder as usual.

RING-AROUND-THE-COLLAR – Rub white chalk into the stain and let sit overnight; launder as usual.

One household item with so many uses!  Just click here.

There is nothing like a good home cooked meal and many of us just love to get in the kitchen and cook!

We enjoy delicious meals with family and friends and then there is the clean up – the worst part of it all.  Dishes, pots, pans, and cookware is bad enough – but then you see all the spills, splatters, and the grease that remain from cooking that are all over your stove or cook top.

The best cleaner for a greasy stove is clean hot soapy water.  A good dish detergent that holds up is a plus.  The cheaper brands and off-brands that are available today usually lose their cleaning ability after the first 4 dishes are washed – provided they weren’t that greasy and messy to begin with.

You can wipe up your counter tops the same way and don’t forget about the sides, front and handles of the refrigerator if your fridge happens to be next to your stove.  Grease has a way of traveling.  And while you’re at it – the hood over the stove is there to collect cooking grime as well.  Wiping the exterior of the hood daily will keep it clean and shiny.  Removing the filter underneath weekly (if you do heavy cooking) or at least once a month (if you are an occasional cook) will keep it functioning the way it should and will keep it clean.

Don’t let the filter intimidate you – just remove and soak in the sink in hot soapy water; scrub gently with a dish brush; rinse well and allow to dry before placing back under the hood.

Anytime you are going to clean your stove or cook top, be sure that it is cool enough to touch – you don’t need to get burned in the process.
Many stoves have the stainless steel drip plates around each burner.  Remove the cooking grates and set aside (in a place on the counter where they won’t fall off or break) and remove these drip plates and place in a sink filled with hot soapy water while you’re cleaning the stove top.  Wipe down the entire stove top including the back of the stove with a clean dish rag using the hot soapy water.  Clean around the stove dials and many of them are easily removable  and can also be placed in the hot soapy water.  Rinse the soap out of the dish cloth and wipe down the stove again. Dry with a clean, soft cloth or paper towels.  Use scouring pads on any tough stains that don’t want to come out and also on the stainless steel drip plates that are in the hot soapy water.  Scour both sides, rinse, dry and place back on the stove top – top with the grates.

Clean the oven doors and handles as well; rinse and dry with a soft cloth.   Wipe down your counter tops and your kitchen is clean and ready for the next big meal.

For cookware that is grease-loaded, scrape out any excess grease and place in a disposable container – never down the sink drains (this will only clog your pipes and cause grief and money to have cleaned out).  You can also check out the topic “How to clean clogged drains” if  your drains are sluggish.

Place cookware in the sink in hot, soapy water and let soak for 10 to 15 minutes.  Scrub with a scouring pad for burned-on grease stains.  If your frying pan (for instance) has food particles stuck to it and you just dread trying to soak and scrub it – pour about an inch of water in the pan and place over medium heat; bring to a boil and carefully scrape up the bottom of the pan using a metal spatula to remove most of what is stuck in the bottom of the pan.  Soak in hot soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes and scrub with a scouring pad.

Remember – cleaning pots, pans and cookware is usually a dreaded chore and to make it easier on you, it is best if done right after cooking.  If allowed to sit too long, it is much harder to clean.

Baking sheets can always be lined with aluminum foil for an easy clean- up.

Always allow pots, pans, and cookware to cool before washing.  Placing hot cookware in cold water while still hot can warp the cookware.

Non -stick cookware should never be cleaned with scouring pads or abrasive scrubbers.  Damaging the non-stick cooking surface leaves you with a pan that is dangerous to cook in and will need to be thrown out.

After cleaning up your kitchen and getting rid of all the grease, scour the sink with cleanser and rinse well.  By now you have a dish cloth that looks like it was dragged through the mud.  Simply plug the sink and fill with hot water; pour in about one cup of bleach and toss your soiled dish cloths and dish towels in the water.  Let sit for about 30 minutes.  If you have a dish drain on the other side of the sink, do the same thing – you’ll be sterilizing your dish drain and cleaning it as well.
Drain the water and rinse the sink and dish drain with clean water.  Rinse out your dish cloths and dish towels that are now stain-free and look like new!

NOTE:  It’s nice to soak your greasy dish cloths and dish towels before laundering them.  This way you are not transferring the grease to other kitchen towels in the washer.

 It’s a wonderful evening, you are going out to dinner or possibly you are at a friends home enjoying a meal – and it happens.  You’ve “dribbled” grease onto your clothing.  Whether it is from the vinaigrette on your salad, a buttered/grilled sandwich, or just a butter or oil dribble from something you are enjoying – it is still unwanted.  Possibly you were cooking or cleaning greasy cookware and splashed grease on your clothing.  Nothing is worse than having grease stains on your clothing – and they don’t wash out when doing the laundry.

The quicker you get to the “accident” the easier it will be to remove the grease stain.  Blot as much of the grease as possible with a napkin or paper towel.  If at a restaurant, ask if the server can bring you some baking soda.  If at a friend’s home ask for baking soda, baby powder or if really desperate – flour or cornstarch.  After wiping as much of the grease off as possible, you are going to want to absorb any remaining grease.  Sprinkle with baking soda, baby powder or even flour.  The baking soda will work better than the baby powder and the flour is really the last resort.

Press the baking soda or baby powder into the stain as hard as you can.

You should always check the label on the garment to see what the care instructions are.  You don’t want to damage the fabric.  Place your fingers on the underside of the fabric and pinch the powder as hard as you can.  Once the powder is pressed into the fabric to absorb the stain, brush off the powder.  If there is a considerable amount of powder left, then you have not absorbed all the grease and you need to repeat the process.  Do this until the powder falls off and you no longer see the stain.  When you get back home, place powder on the stain again and repeat the process.  This time leave the powder on the garment until you are ready to do the laundry.  In a few days you will find that the grease stain is gone.

If you have to use talcum powder, it will work if there is no other option.  Just don’t use any colored powder.

A dry-cleaning solvent can be used to blot out the stain if you have any handy.  Place the stained part of the garment on paper towels so you don’t transfer the grease onto anything else.   You can use a toothbrush to work the powder into the stain.  You’ll see the powder ball up – it is absorbing the grease.  Just keep repeating the process.  Remove all the powder from the garment, squirt some dry-cleaning solvent directly on the stain – or if preferred, squirt on a sponge and apply to the garment.  Work the solvent into the material.  Launder the garment on the hottest setting for that fabric.  This should remove the grease stains.

Sometimes it is easier for the powder to work on the stain if you dampen the stain with water; the water helps the powder to stick better and do it’s job.  This trick works well with baby powder.  Launder the garment normally.  When dry, check to see if the stain is still noticeable and if needed, repeat the process all over again.

For older, set-in stains on your clothing, moisten the stain back up by squirting with a little WD-4.  Let sit for 30 minutes and treat as a fresh grease stain.

Lestoil can be used as well; place on the stain and rub to remove; launder as you normally would.  And a good brand name dishwashing detergent may also do the trick.  Just allow these cleaners to set on the stain for 5 to 10 minutes after rubbing the fabric.

If nothing is available to use, make a paste out of your laundry detergent and a bit of water; rub into the stain and rub the fabric to remove; launder as you normally would.

Thick grease, such as automotive grease on clothing you will need to scrape the extra grease off with a knife before treating the stain.  Cover with absorbent powder (cornstarch, baby powder, baking soda) and work it well into the stain.  By working the powder in very slowly you will be able to lift the stain faster.  Allow to sit for several hours if not overnight; brush off powder.

Many times after treating the stain you can still see some of it.  That is when you can use dish detergent to lift the rest of the stain.  Let it set for 10 minutes and launder as you normally would.

If you have a load of greasy wash, pour a cup of ammonia into the washer and launder as usual.  You may need to double rinse the load, but the grease stains should be gone.

Patent leather shoes are quite popular and with all those spring and summer colors, you want several pairs in your wardrobe.  But unsightly scuffs marks make your nice shiny patent leathers look old, worn and unattractive.

With a little patience, and a few items that you already have at your disposal, those ugly scuff marks can disappear and keep your patent leathers shiny and new looking.

After trying different methods and going through many different cleaners, erasers, etc. these are some of the easiest and simplest ways of removing scuff marks:

Depending on the size of the scuff marks you can use a Q-tip, cotton ball or a clean soft rag.  Put some acetone nail polish remover on the rag (for instance) and the scuff marks disappear and doesn‘t harm the shine of  your shoes.  Non-acetone nail polish can dull the finish if left on too long. 

Pure acetone that is used on sculptured nails works perfectly and also removes stains! 

Those Magic Erasers work (dry) but take more effort.  You don’t want to use any water with this – the dry eraser does the job.  It may take much more elbow grease than using one of the liquid treatments – but it will work.

Some of those fragrant essential oils can be used as well.  Just place a few drops on a clean cloth, soft paper towel, tissue, etc. and rub the scuff marks off.

Using a hand sanitizer works as well.  Place a tiny bit of it on a clean rag, cotton ball, etc. and wipe right off.

There is a product called Goo Gone that can also be effective used the same way.

Many have used W-D 40 to remove the scuffs – just spray on a cotton ball and the scuff marks are gone.

It’s also another use for Vaseline.  And Vaseline will also bring back the shine if you happen to remove the shine.  Vaseline also helps to keep the shoes newer longer.

These products also work on patent leather handbags if there is a mark left from a pen or a marker on it.  Just a bit of a cleaner on a clean rag and the mark should be gone.

In a pinch?  Try Jiffy peanut butter!  Or mineral oil or even baby oil.  Cascade dishwasher detergent (liquid) is another option.

What about your scrubbing bubbles that you clean your shower with?  A bit on a clean cloth and a quick rub should do it.

Do you have any waterproofing spray for your winter boots?  That will work as well.

After removing the scuff marks, use a slightly dampened clean cloth over the area to remove any excess chemicals.

And of course, you can purchase a patent leather cleaner that is sold in the stores.  But why spend the money when there is something in your own home you can use that will save you money and is right at your fingertips?

But one thing to remember – use whatever you are going to put on your patent leather very sparingly until you see how it works for you.  Rub a slightly dampened cloth over the area and you’re as good as new.

One household item has so many uses!  Click here.

I don’t think there is anyone who has not had an ink stain on their clothing.  And I know that many have laundered clothing with pens in the pockets as well!  And that can mess up the whole load of laundry – including the washer!

NOTE:  Ink that is water-based, like the ink from a felt-tip pen, may be partially removed using alcohol, but the whole stain most likely will not come out.  After treating with alcohol as stated above, apply soapy water and flush the stain with warm water before laundering.
 

Chocolate is an all-time favorite with everyone.  No matter what your age, chocolate is something we all enjoy.  But this tasty treat can end up being a very sticky mess!

And boy can chocolate be messy!  It can melt quite easily.  Little ones will lick their fingers and usually finish off by wiping their little chocolate-coated fingers on their clothing, or an upholstered chair or sofa, or a tablecloth – or better yet – an adults’ article of clothing.

What to do if it gets on your rugs?

When this happens, try to scrape off as much of the chocolate residue as possible.  Then, using a white paper towel or clean cloth, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the stain and blot.  If any of the stain remains, apply a solution of ¼ teaspoon mild white detergent and 1 cup of water that is at room temperature.  Work from the outer edge of the stain to the middle – blotting and not rubbing.  Rubbing would push the stain further into the carpeting.  Rinse with cool, clear water to remove any soap residue.

If there is chocolate on an article of clothing, be sure to check the care tag on the item to ensure that you won’t destroy the fabric while trying to remove stains.

Any article of clothing that is “dry clean only” should be taken to the dry cleaners – why put up with the hassle and take any risks of ruining something you may have spent a lot of money on.

Feeling a bit adventurous?  Begin by allowing the chocolate to harden on the clothing.  You can place it in the refrigerator or freezer to harden it quicker.  Then, using a small metal spatula or a butter knife, begin scraping off as much of the chocolate as possible.  Be sure to use a blunt edge – a serrated edge may tear up the fibers in the clothing.  When you’ve scraped as much off as you can get, run the hot water and get it as hot as you can, or heat some water in the microwave or on the stovetop.   Using a clean cloth that you’ve placed in the hot water – “push” the remaining chocolate through the back side of the stain to melt it as well as push it out of the fabric.  Repeat this process until the chocolate stain stops shrinking.  Using your liquid dish detergent, saturate the stain and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes.  Then gently rub the fabric together to move the soap and stain around the fibers, rinse with hot water.  This procedure may have to be repeated one more time.  Then launder the clothing as normal.

If the article of clothing seems to have more chocolate on it than there was in a chocolate bar you may have to place it in your washing machine and pour one gallon of whole milk into the washer.  Let that soak for 30 minutes, then start your wash cycle.  That should remove the stains. 

Any dark greasy stains that may remain can be pretreated with dish detergent for 15 minutes and washed again in a normal wash cycle.

And what about your upholstered furniture?  Once again, allow the chocolate to dry and scrape as much as possible off the fabric using a blunt knife or small spatula.  Place a layer of paper towels over the stain (use a thickness of several) and turn your iron on the lowest setting possible.  Do NOT steam!  You want to melt the chocolate.  Once the chocolate starts to melt it will be absorbed by the paper towels.  Remember to move the paper towels around to absorb the chocolate.  Replace the towels as needed – you don’t want to move the chocolate to other areas of the upholstery.  Continue until the stain is gone.  The iron needs to be just hot enough to barely melt the chocolate.  If your iron is too hot there is a chance the stain can spread.  Any dark spots left behind can be removed with a spot treatment or scrub with liquid dish detergent and blot dry.

 We’ve all seen those big grease and oil stains that have been “deposited” on concrete/cement driveways.  Other liquids also leave stain marks.  When you stop by a service station you see drops of oil on the concrete floor underneath where you park your car.  These stains are unavoidable – many people cause spills whenever they fill their cars.  This can also happen in your driveway or right in front of your own home.   

These stains can consist of dripping brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, motor oil, etc.   They can be caused accidentally while you are filling the fluids, changing the fluids or even by another vehicle that has leaks and is parked in your driveway.

Not only are oil stains ugly to look at, but they can also be destructive.  Grease and gasoline can actually eat into any paved area that is made of asphalt and dissolve it.
 
Concrete is a porous material – the tiny holes in it allow liquids to pool and soak deep into the concrete.  If not cleaned up immediately after the spill, substances have a chance to penetrate deeper into the concrete.  The older the stains – the harder they are to clean up.  Older stains have penetrated very deep into the concrete. 

Since oil and grease do not dissolve in water, they are not easy to clean off using soap and water.  Spilling paints or foods are much easier to clean because they are water soluble.

And you don’t have to look at these stains – they are easy to remove.  Even though concrete absorbs liquids quickly, stains can be removed – especially if they are fresh.

The first thing to do if you have a fresh spill is to blot it up and absorb as much as possible using paper towels or other absorbent paper, or old rags** you are disposing of.  Do not rub – you don’t want to push the liquid any deeper into the pores of the concrete.  Next, spread a layer of sawdust, cornmeal, kitty litter, or another absorbent powder over the spill and let it set there anywhere from 3 to 4 hour to overnight to absorb what you could not blot up.  An absorbent powder will also work to draw the grease or oil up and out of the pores in the concrete.  Next morning, wipe again with absorbent paper or sweep up.

Since kitty litter is an absorbent clay, it draws in the moisture and makes the spill clump up.  Kitty litter works on the spill just like it works in the litter box – moisture causes it to clump.  This will prevent the stain from getting worse.  Use a push broom and push the kitty litter back and forth to absorb as much liquid as possible.  When you’ve got as much as you can absorb, sweep up and dispose of properly.
 
You can sprinkle dry dishwasher detergent on the wet concrete, allow to stand for several minutes and then douse the area with hot boiling water; scrub with a good hard bristle brush and rinse.  

A good stiff brush and using concentrated liquid laundry detergent will also remove stains.  Rinse well and if the stain is still showing, repeat again.

When scrubbing concrete you need to scrub as hard as you can with a stiff brush to get down into the open pores in the concrete.   Sometimes scrubbing is not enough and you need to us a cleaning solvent.

If you prefer to use a chemical (solvent), try trisodium phosphate (TSP).  You’ll need to ventilate the area well and wear protective rubber gloves (you must avoid any skin contact with TSP or any solvent).  Sprinkle on and let stand for half an hour; scrub with a stiff brush and hot water; rinse well.  When done wash well – you don’t want any  TSP on you.  You can also make a thick paste from trisodium phosphate mixed with a little bleach and apply to the stain.  Trisodium phosphate can be purchased at any home and garden center.

You can use a pressure washer and avoid using any chemicals.  Pressure washers will work, but they can also damage the concrete by leaving pockmarks.

It’s just like the bacon grease down the drain – if you spill any bacon grease down the drain you need to add soap and hot water so that it doesn’t congeal into a solid and close your drain line.  The same concept will work on oil stains in your drive way.  You need to emulsify the grease by squirting with liquid dish soap and adding some water from the garden hose.  Scrub with a good brush or even a push broom to create emulsion.  Oil should come off easily.  Rinse well with clean water and if you see a rainbow in the water you will need to repeat the process.  The rainbow will tell if there is still some grease left.  Just repeat the process and it will be gone.

This all sounds quite simple – and it is – for fresh stains.  But what about those stains that have been left untreated for so long and have been absorbed into the concrete.  They can become thick and quite difficult to remove.  If that is the case, you need to re-liquefy the stain by using a hydrocarbon-based solvent such as paint thinner or even kerosene.  Add small amounts of the solvent to the stains and just let them soak into the concrete.  Scrub lightly and at the same time blot with paper towels or absorbent paper.  Keep repeating this process until the stain is gone.  This can be a dangerous process due to the fact that the fumes can be ignited by a spark and can travel a distance across your garage floor, etc.  And you don’t want these solvents to penetrate your skin or clothing.  You could ignite easily if you are not careful.

If working with any solvents, always wear protective clothing including gloves and a mask.  The fumes can be harmful and worse if you have any respiratory or heart problems.  Stay away from any open flames (like the pilot in your furnace or hot water tank if removing stains from your basement floor).  Be sure to ventilate the area very well.  And if you are using any paper towels for the spills, burn them in a safe place. 

**NOTE:  Remember to dispose of any oil/grease-soaked rags properly.  Rags with oil or grease on them can cause a spontaneous combustion and start a fire.  Take to your local recycling center as soon as possible.  Don’t store these rags in the house overnight; place them outside and a safe distance from the house.

It’s much easier to prevent oil spills and there is less hassle than having to clean them up in the future.  Keeping your property clean is always a priority but prevention can also help to avoid fire and combustion hazards from occurring.  Depending on where you live, working on car engines in driveways or street parking lanes may be prohibited.

If you need to change your oil, add coolant and antifreeze, etc. to your car and you are doing this in your driveway, place a vinyl tarp under your car to cover the surface.  If your drip pan is large enough (when changing your oil) you will collect every drop and there will be no spillage.  Just be careful when removing it so that it doesn’t spill.

Hard water stains are embarrassing and unsightly but yet common in all households.  Not only do you not want to see them, but you certainly don’t want others to see them.  These stains contain a large amount of calcium, magnesium, lime, iron and other minerals that make your fixtures, appliances, windows, etc. look like they aren’t clean.  And even after they are removed, they still come back.

You’ll see white lime scales on your kitchen appliances, bathroom sink, vanity basin and fixtures.  This scale attracts dirt, scum, and also  mildew.  And these hard water stains are not easy to remove.  There are several products on the market that can remove these stains.  And there are some very strong acids that are very effective on hard water stains as well.

No matter how hard your scrub or how often you clean, hard water stains will not budge without the right cleaner. 

For hard water stains in your toilet bowl you will need a strong toilet bowl cleaner.  Squirt around, under the rim and let sit for several minutes; swish with a soft brush and flush the dirt and hard water stains away.  This should be done twice a week if it is a bad problem, and once a week once it is under control.  For real bad hard water stains or heavy mineral buildup, pour a bucket of water into the bowl, which will reduce the water level, and apply a generous amount of toilet bowl cleaner.  Let it sit for 15 minutes or longer.  Swish with your bowl brush.  If the stain is still there, repeat this process.  A second application should do the trick.

There are safer non-toxic cleaners that feature formulas that are biodegradable and phosphate free.  These ultra-concentrated cleaners are safe for the environment, your home and your family.  You won’t need to use rubber gloves either!  It’s all natural!

Here’s a few tips for hard water stain removal:

Lemon juice is very effective for hard water staining and if you have bottled lemon juice that is past its expiration date in the refrigerator – don‘t toss it out – use it for your stain removal.

A towel soaked in vinegar is also effective for removing hard water stains.  White distilled vinegar has many uses in the home; it’s nice to keep a gallon of it around.

Dryer sheets are useful for the hard water stain.  If you don’t usually use dryer sheets, you can always pick up a cheap brand at the dollar store for use.

Spray your appliances with vinegar and wipe clean with paper towels.  Keeping a spray bottle of vinegar for cleaning is a big help around the house.
 
Hard water stains in pans?  Pour two cups of distilled vinegar in your pan and bring to a boil; let simmer for 10 minutes and rinse well.

A mixture of one cup of distilled vinegar and one tablespoon lime juice can be used on affected areas.

Vinegar and a good scrubbing with a toothbrush is effective.

Windex can be used on hard water stains.

If you have an automatic dishwasher and you use a rinsing agent, that will extend the life on your dishwasher and prevents lime build up.